The Shell of the El Camino
“James, the brother of Jesus, was killed in Jerusalem for his convictions about his brother. James had spent some time preaching on the Iberian Peninsula, and after his death, his bones were mysteriously transported by a ship with no crew back to the Iberian Peninsula to the Northwestern province of Galicia in Spain.
A wedding was taking place along the shore as James’ ship approached land. The young bridegroom was on horseback, and on seeing the ship approaching, his horse got spooked, and the horse and rider plunged into the sea.
Through miraculous intervention, the horse and rider emerged from the water, covered in seashells, and galloped off into the distance.
To this day, the scallop shell, typically found on the shores in Galicia, remains the symbol of the Camino de Santiago.” http://otherspain.com/pages/writing/scallop.asp
In May of 2014, my middle son completed a goal. He walked the El Camino, the Way of St. James, in northern Spain with two friends. When he returned home, the subsequent discussions about the trip piqued my interest. I didn’t have the idea – at first – of attempting the walk. I simply found it rather fascinating, and somewhat incomprehensible. At a cookout, a friend heard about the trip and challenged me to take it with her. Wediscussed walking the trail during May of 2015. The discussions were brief and random. Life took over, and we rarely met to discuss it further. However, my imagination grabbed the idea, and I began saving money. Other than that, I didn’t plan much. I didn’t prepare physically at all. This didn’t matter in the fall of 2014. I was teaching, and dealing with family stuff. But I kept saving. Something drove me to do this. If you understood just how poorly I save money, you would understand more clearly. During my life, I’ve rarely dealt with the financial side of things. Even when I was a single mother living on the poverty level, I didn’t do it. Of course, at that point, I had very little income to pay the bills, much less save. Today, I’m much better off, yet it doesn’t seem to matter.
I wish I understood my desire to take this walk and could explain it to you in depth, but I can’t. I kept the small flame alive in my imagination. I’m sure that you, like me, have heard the quote, “If you can imagine it, you can achieve it. If you can dream it, you can become it.” This quote is attributed to William Arthur Ward. I’ve no idea who he is, but he is so right. The flame stayed burning in my imagination, and at some point in the saving process, I believed I could do it. My husband and I spent the night (one night only) in Barcelona a decade or so ago in preparation for going on a cruise. I loved it. The sights, the sounds, the aromas. I knew returning to Spain would be greatly satisfying. I was so right.
The last couple of years, we have seen a lot of illnesses, deaths, and declining parents. This takes its toll, as anyone who has experienced it will tell you. I was ready for an adventure and two weeks away from the difficulties that were my life. That may have been part of my desire.
Let me help you understand why I’m writing this. I turned 60 in November of 2014. I don’t want to take the chance of waiting too long for great physical experiences and challenges. Yes, I’ve heard that “60 is the new 40.” Sure. With enough plastic surgery, exercise, and self-care, perhaps. Perhaps not. At that time, I also believed I had a partner in the trip. This helped me believe in it, I’m sure. My friend assured me (way back during the first conversation) that she expected to get a large Christmas bonus which she would use to pay for her trip. At the time, my research showed that airfare was between $1500 and $1800. Because my son had been on the trip, I knew that daily expenses were low. If you choose to stay in hostels on the trail, you can do the trip for less than 18-20 euros (at the time I went, the dollar was $1.11 to one euro). I had no plans to stay in hostels. I’m way too old for that. Likely, I was born too old for hostels. I need sleep and I need privacy. Now, having taken the trip, some of the hotels in which I stayed weren’t much better than hostels. Three were magnificent, and cost less than 65 euros. I’ll take that. In two, I shared a bathroom with other rooms. In one, I bathed in the sink that was in the room to avoid the communal bathroom, shared with nine rooms.
I saw this as an opportunity for a spiritual walk, as well as a physical challenge. I’d never considered anything like this before. I’m not a religious person. Having completed the walk, I am now considering so much more. Traveling, pursuing a goal, accomplishing it, and returning are great instigators for pushing yourself to do and see more. I have the travel bug, and I don’t mean taking a trip to Charleston. The bug is pushing me to go to places where I’ve never been. I’ve been bitten hard.
In December, I received the staggering news that my sister had ovarian cancer. This ruled my life for the winter semester (I teach at a community college). Prior to returning to school on January 15, I made four 5-hour trips (one way) to be with and assist my sister. My youngest sister did the same (I’m the middle of the three sisters with an older and a younger brother as well). Getting such horrendous news changes your thought process, your priorities, and your world. In some ways, those changes can be very good. I realized just who had the most importance in my life, and what I was willing to do for those I loved. I’m deeply grateful for that realization and the opportunity to spend that important time with her.
I got through the semester. At the end, I told a group of students (several of whom had taken my class before) just how easy they had it because the emotional effects of my sister’s illness caused me a lot of attention difficulties when it came to preparing for class. Two of them (who were previous students) laughed out loud, and said they had just been discussing this. I warned the rest that this was the last time that this would happen. I meant it.
Finally, my friend and I met for dinner to discuss the trip. I believe this was in late March of 2015, possibly early April. I knew we were on a deadline to get the best flight prices. At dinner, she informed me that now she wanted to go in July, not in May, because her employer would be out of town for two weeks. I didn’t respond properly because I was rather stunned at this news. I deeply despise heat and humidity, and having discussed this with my son, I simply knew I couldn’t do a July trip. I didn’t say this. I wonder why now. I think it was because I didn’t believe she really wanted to go on this trip, and that if I didn’t do it in May, I would not get the chance. She also shared that she was hoping to get a free plane ticket from a friend who has a lot of miles from plane flights. This didn’t sound like planning to me. This didn’t sound like a plan at all. Again, I didn’t respond the way I felt. What I asked for was that she find out if she could get the ticket, and let me know by Sunday evening. This was a Thursday night. By Sunday, I had heard nothing. Tuesday night, again nothing. I began looking for others who would consider the trip. I found one friend who thought it interesting and would think about it. I sent a text to the first friend that I needed to know something, and that if she wasn’t interested or able, I had another who may be. She told me to go with the other friend, and that she intended on going on the trip in July. I booked my plane ticket. As it turned out, the 2nd friend felt that she simply wasn’t ready for such a walk. This is a 75 mile walk in six days, depending on the location of your hotel, which can extend a day’s walking by a couple of miles. I believe I added at least an extra three miles walking to hotels at the end of the day. I understand not feeling like you are ready. I surely wasn’t.
In April of 2015, I had a plane ticket to Madrid, Spain, where I had never been. My son assured me I needed no hotel reservations on the trail. However, he also told me that I could send my luggage daily to the next hotel, provided I knew where I was staying by placing a provided tag on the luggage with the name of the next hotel, along with three Euros. This appeared to be a no-brainer to me. I had no interest in carrying my luggage on my back. For mother’s day, my youngest son gave me a journal, along with a lot of encouragement to use it on the trip. I am doing so with this story. My middle son, the one who had been on the el Camino, provided me with a book about the trail, and the location. I took it along.
The week before I left, my husband and I went online to reserve hotels. I booked all but one, which my husband later found and booked. Actually, I got all but two hotels, but that part of the story comes later. I didn’t reserve a train ticket from Madrid to Sarria – the beginning location for my walk (there are many places to start) – because my son also assured me I needed no train reservation. In addition, he told me the trail was mostly flat. Here’s what I suggest to anyone listening to my beloved son. Do your own research. He is well traveled and has been to many amazing places. Just don’t listen to him about what you need to do before you follow in his footsteps. Follow gratefully and happily, but do your own research.
My husband began encouraging me (pushing me) to walk lengthy miles daily several months before I left. I assured him I would. Next week. And then the next, and then the next. The one thing I did in preparation for my trip was go to REI and buy boots. Amazing boots, which did the walking for me. I would highly recommend them. I also listened carefully to my salesperson at REI. I purchased a hat, special underwear, several dri-fit shirts, and a pair of shorts with the zip off bottom legs. Thank you, REI. If you watch the movie, Wild, or read the book, she didn’t listen to her REI rep. It was a huge mistake. I still lost two toe nails. She lost several more.
As an instructor in a local community college, the end of the semester crashed on me. I can blame no one but myself. My last exam was on Friday, May 8. I had to have exams graded, grades into the computer, by that night (a Friday). My flight was on Saturday, May 9, at 3:30 PM. I wondered more than once why I had pushed the flight so soon after the end of the trip. It didn’t matter. The plane was booked, and so was my trip.
A week before the trip, the realization hit me. What the hell was I doing? A 60 year old woman (I keep emphasizing that but most of us at this age will tell you we don’t feel the age – I think I was trying to be aware) traveling to Spain alone to go on a 75 mile walk, also alone. Alone is a relative term here. Thousands of people walk the El Camino. I saw many of those thousands on the walk. But when it came to traveling, getting to a train, hotels, I was alone.
By Saturday morning, May 9, I had exams finished, graded, and in the computer. I awoke and packed. I began to get quite nervous, so I convinced my husband to go to lunch. We briefly visited my youngest son before we left, then went to Barnes and Nobel, and later headed to the airport in Greenville, SC. He sat with me for about 20 minutes, and then I walked alone to the gate. I had something to eat, where I met a photographer who stated that, during his military career, he was one of only 13 Americans on the ground during the Cuban Missile Crisis. I teach history. American history books state that no Americans were on the ground during this mission. He agreed that was true, and said if they were caught, the military had advised them they would not be recognized as an authorized military force. I’ve heard this before, and have no doubt it is true. That was the beginning of the experience. I tell my students, and anyone else who will listen, there is nothing like travel to broaden you mentally, culturally, physically, and emotionally. As Mark Twain said, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” The adventure began.
From Greenville, I went to Charlotte. There I made my first exchange for Euros. The ride to Madrid was uneventful. I slept a bit, and only conversed with one exchange student who spoke English (My son also assured me that everyone spoke English. I cannot emphasize enough – do your own research). An eleventh grader, she was coming home from a year as an international exchange student in Akron, Ohio. She had a trash bag full of clothes and worried about what her mother would think of her purchases. I suggested that she tell them she bought them in Walmart. She laughed and said that would mean nothing to her mother. Imagine that.
On the flight, we were served two meals. I included this because I never get fed on flights in America. This was a long flight.
In Madrid, I walked through an enormous airport. I got my one piece of luggage (I carried on a backpack), and found a taxi. From there, I went to the Madrid Airport Hilton. My husband and I agreed we needed to do this to sleep before heading to Sarria. I’ve made a few international flights, and I generally don’t do well making the time change. I was determined this would not impact me on this trip. Once arriving at the Hilton around 1 PM, I slept for six hours, got up, showered, ate, and returned to bed. I believe I watched a movie. Quite frankly, this is rather hazy. The flame in my imagination burned to get me to the El Camino.
The next morning, around 10:30 AM I took a cab to the train station. The train to Sarria was at noon. I found the information booth. Because I took five semesters of Spanish in college, I can read a bit and understand less in Spanish. Fortunately, here the clerk spoke English. Unfortunately, the train was full. I called my husband in the states, he found the bus station on the internet, and gave me the location. I could have done that on my phone, but the internet connection didn’t work in the train station. How in the world did St. James make this walk centuries ago without help? I took a taxi to the bus station, purchased a ticket, and walked around a bit to orient myself to the location. My ticket said Alsa. I had no clue as to what that meant.
My bus left at 3:00 PM. About 2:30, I began looking for it. What I found is what immigrants to America (and other countries) experience when you don’t speak the language of the locals. I asked what obviously appeared to be bus station employees where the bus was. One guy said Alsa. He then pointed. My response – no hablo Española. He said it louder. I shook my head. He yelled it. That really didn’t help at all. Finally, another employee unlocked a door and pointed to buses – on the side of which stated “Alsa.” Think Greyhound in America. I raced to the buses, and found the one going to Lugo. There were no buses to Sarria. The bus driver laughed at me. I’m okay with that. The train trip was six hours, the bus trip, seven. I took the train on the return trip to Madrid. I really think the bus trip was more comfortable and much more interesting. The bus station itself was extremely clean with people reading books instead of staring at their phones. The exceptions were the teenagers. How refreshing.
The city of Madrid is covered in graffiti. Think of someplace in America where you’ve seen graffiti (I believe it first started in Philadelphia). Now quadruple that amount. There is graffiti everywhere it can possibly be painted. What you don’t see is litter. I was amazed with the lack of litter, so I googled it. In Spain, if you are caught littering a cigarette butt, you can be fined $1,000.00. Another friend recently returned from Singapore. There, you can be fined $500.00 for chewing gum (they know many people don’t dispose of it properly, but stick it under seats, and other public places). What I don’t understand is why we, as Americans, seem to care so little for our environment? I saw all of this as the bus headed out of the city.
On the bus trip through northern Spain, I saw wind turbines, solar panels, more graffiti (almost no litter), and little old men in berets with canes. I think that could be their national motto. On the bus, I met no one who spoke English, including the bus driver. Everyone (with the exception of the bus station employees) was helpful. The countryside is gorgeous. I saw two castles.
We stopped at about five to six towns. One stop in Labaňeza was simply to allow us to eat. If you don’t eat bread, don’t go to Spain. We arrived in Lugo at 10:00 PM. Earlier in the day, I received a text messaged from my first hotel – 108 to Santiago – in Sarria. The employee inquired as to when I expected to arrive. I explained what happened, and said I would arrive in Lugo at 10 PM at their bus station. She (I believe it was a woman) said she would pick me up there. When I got to Lugo, the bus station was empty. I walked around the station, looking for my ride. Nothing. My phone died an hour before because I was so intent on taking pictures of the countryside. There I was in Lugo, Spain, with no ride, no phone, and no contacts. I discovered then just how kind and helpful Spaniards are. I found this to be true throughout my trip. It must be cultural. I’ve never experienced anything like that.
The towns in which we stopped were tiny. Passengers were quiet, some sleeping, and some reading. The fields outside were surreal with beauty. At one stop in Ponferrado, the outside looked much like the Shenandoah Valley. I was blinded with the beauty. In the middle of small groups of homes scattered all along the road, I saw a church steeple. I saw this over and over. These churches looked medieval in architecture. The cities had few stoplights, with mostly roundabouts and traffic that kept moving. I saw a lovely bridge with a round arc between the lanes. In the larger of the towns, I saw lots of graffiti. When do the street artists paint? This last stop was where most of the passengers disembarked.
A man walking through the station approached me. There was a pay phone which I couldn’t read because everything was in Spanish. I pointed to the number I received from the employee at the hotel. He kindly made the call for me. It took me a week to figure out that I needed to put a “00” before the country code. The learning curve never ended. I got in touch with the employee who was supposed to be at the bus station. Once I told her what happened, she stated that she was at the Sarria bus station, and because I had to go to Lugo and was in the bus station there, I needed to take a cab. The phone died – it was a pay phone. My helpful person disappeared. I went out to see if I could find a cab. Nothing. Two people pointed me to where they thought the cab station was located. No. I re-entered the station. I discovered a bar on the end of the bus station. There again, was my earlier helper. I simply said, “Taxi.” He looked around and pointed outside. There sat two cabs. I almost fainted with relief.
I approached them and asked for a ride to Sarria. I showed my piece of paper with the name of the hotel on it. With incredible fortune, one driver was raised in England, and spoke impeccable English. Unfamiliar with the hotel, he called to get the location. The ride took about twenty-five minutes. I hit him with question after question. The government in Spain, the health care, their gun laws, the economy, taxes, and more. Once we got to a turn, he paused, and said he would like to take me for a drink. If we were to do that, he would need to turn left. Right turn took us to the hotel. I tried not to panic. Calmly, I told him that I was very tired and needed to get to the hotel. He respected my request, and took me there. Turning down a very small road, I was first terrified that I was going to be murdered. How American. We drove up in front of the hotel – which was really a building with two rooms and an office on the bottom floor, with four rooms and one bathroom on the 2nd floor. I shook his hand, thanked him, paid him (the most expensive ride I had in Spain), and hurried to my hotel, bouncing my luggage up the stairs to a corner room with two twin beds. It was close to 11:00 PM in Spain. I prepared for bed and collapsed.
The next morning, I bathed in the communal bathroom. I only heard one person the night before, who banged on the wall when I was too loud on the phone. That morning, it appeared that everyone had already left. When I peered out the window, I saw pilgrims already walking on the trail. After showering, and putting on my new walking clothes, I placed the tag somewhat uncomfortably on my luggage, put it in the small alcove, and took off. I had no idea if I would ever see it again.
At the beginning of the walk, you are supposed to pick up a “passport.” This is a booklet which you get stamped as you walk (much like a passport is stamped in airports) which is a way of proving that you completed the walk. Then you take it to the passport center in Santiago, and receive a certificate as a source of approval. I didn’t think about this until day three, so I got one stamp in my journal. I don’t need the certificate to prove I did it (although I would like to have one). I have 250+ pictures, and a memory that will persist, hopefully, until I pass into the great beyond. The other “required” souvenir is a shell. On the first couple of days, farmers and merchants sell these along the trail. I purchased one for 3 Euros, and placed it on my backpack. I believe I have enough proof. I lost two toe nails, and a tooth. I think that is proof enough.
My son warned me in advance that attempting to explain this walk to anyone would only frustrate me, as it apparently had him. I still want to try. I want as many of you as are interested to take this walk, or something similar. Especially in todays technologically dominated world. This takes you to a place that most of us don’t have available in this day and time. He also suggested I put away my phone. Being a single woman on this walk, I didn’t want to do that. I also used it for over 250 pictures of this incredible experience.
The first day of walking was Monday, May 11. I started at 9:00 AM. The beginning of the walk was mostly uphill. Where was that flat trail my son described? He taught me to say, “Buen Camino,” to each walker before I left. This is what pilgrims say to each other, as they walk along. “Good Walk.” I got my first “buen camino” at 9:15 AM that Monday morning. I was also immediately assaulted with my son’s second warning. If you can’t tolerate the odor of cow manure, you can’t take this walk. Almost constant and some days much stronger than others, the odor was pungent and powerful. I heartily suggest you take essential oils to dab below your nose in order to mask the odor. I don’t want to imagine what it is like in July.
I left my hairdryer in Sarria. Along with the free converter I received from the Hilton Airport in Madrid. When I realized it, I called the hotel. I was told I could send a cab to pick it up. I figured for what the tiny dryer had cost, it would not be economic wise to do that. Fortunately, every other hotel in which I stayed allowed me to borrow one.
I would like to take a moment to write about the small differences one finds in Europe. It is a never ending learning curve for this American. From the electrical outlets, this requires a converter for all American electric items, to the faucets on the sinks and bath tubs, to the need to ask for ice in drinks, to the language barriers. I discovered that I could point and overcome those in many instances. I also improved my Spanish greatly in the two weeks I was there. I’m convinced that a visit of a month would allow me to become semi fluent. That could be wishful thinking, but the need to communicate overcomes a lot.
The walk relaxed me. Again, I found the beauty of the countryside intoxicating. Occasionally, the path leads walkers through tiny villages. I don’t even know if you would call these villages. They are more like neighborhoods of dairy farmers who live close to each other. The barns are ever present, as are the crops. I confess to not knowing what many of those were. There was a recurrent kind of elevated structure, which I later discovered was a tiny building where they keep the corn to dry. I discovered that the elevation of the building is to keep the rats out. Some things are more than you really want to know.
Each day along the trail, a couple of hours after beginning the walk, I found a number of small restaurants. Cafes, bars – whatever you would like to call them. These locations prepared sandwiches, had lots of beer and wine choices, and on occasion, great salads. Pulpo (octopus) is a favorite of the region. I discovered it is much smarter to get pulpo in restaurants in the small end-of-the-day towns than on the trail. It’s Europe there are many smokers. Lots of drinkers as well. I love people watching, so this was an exercise in delight.
Everyone I asked during the first two days whether or not they spoke Spanish (“hables inglis?”) responded “poco.” A little. This included the waiters and waitresses along the trail. Where were those English speakers my son spoke so heartily about? I would discover on day three why I had discovered few so far.
On Day 1, I walked along, with my new boots, my new clothes, my son’s backpack, and the realization that it is much colder in Spain in May than it is in Greenville. I wasn’t prepared for that. I didn’t do that research. I wore a long sleeved t-shirt under my shirt and jacket, and took it off in restrooms at lunch. That helped, but I was still quite chilly in the mornings. Day 1 was quite a challenge. I almost gave up around 1:30, when I came upon a cab stop. I determinedly didn’t allow myself to wait for a cab, even though I looked back longingly at it at least two times. I kept saying, “You can do this.” When I arrived at Portomarin at the end of the walk, I was beat. There was a steep hill down to a long bridge. The day had gotten progressively warmer, and I was sweating bullets. During the day, I received a call from my previous hotel, 108 to Santiago. They couldn’t locate my hotel in Portomarin, so they sent my luggage to a bar. (I discovered later that I had booked a hotel in Switzerland. How I hate paying for rooms I don’t use). I wrote it down as she spoke, then she offered to spell it. Wisely, I agreed. The spelling was nothing close to what I wrote. Once in Portomarin, the first hotel I spotted was the Villejo Marin. I went inside, and asked if there were any rooms available. One. Only one room. I took it. The clerk told me it was 70 Euros, but since I was only one person (which I knew) she would only charge 60 Euros. I wouldn’t have cared at that point what the price was. I then told her I needed to get to the bar first where my luggage, and passport, should be. She gave directions (three blocks away), which I followed and entered the bar. There sat my luggage. This amazed me. Each day after that, the same thing happened, except the luggage was in my chosen hotel. Three times, it was in my room, like it had been spirited there. And this for 3 Euros (about $3.33), well worth the price. I returned to the hotel, got my key, went to the room and collapsed. Everything I was wearing was completely soaked with sweated. I rested awhile, then bathed and went out to eat. The middle of the village was like a Hollywood backdrop, with a court and the requisite medieval Catholic Church in the court. I took a video of it and sent it to my son. Absolutely amazing. I went to a small restaurant, ordered food (pulpo) and wine. I did hear one group of English speakers, but they were sitting at another restaurant. I ate, walked around a bit, purchased some fruit from a small market, and returned to hit the sack. Walking the trail is not complicit with partying. Later I learned that like me, many pilgrims were in bed by 9:00. I also heard many English speakers later laugh when I shared that my son told me everyone spoke English.
On Day 2, I started walking at 8:30. Many were already walking. The trail has yellow arrows, so it’s hard to miss the direction. Even so, I missed it a few times where the arrow was faded, or painted on something unexpected. You can find it on the road, on concrete walls, on trees, on signs, on posts – almost anywhere it can be painted. You can also ask, or watch for fellow pilgrims. I slept very well the night before, and felt quite rested as I began. Day 2 was not as picturesque as the first day. I encountered one or two English speakers, and those were 2nd language speakers. I began thinking about my life, and my choices, and how each choice moved me from a previous path. Some of those paths have circled back around, and I found myself returning to an earlier direction. Some have not. I feel it is time for another goal in my life, and I’m seeking those open windows. I considered many things as I walked along.
I sent the following text to my son: “This trip reminds me that we must keep our eyes on the two steps in front of us – glance up occasionally at your goal. But not for too long because if you aren’t watching your steps, you’ll trip and fall.” I wrote this because on some occasions as I walked along, I wasn’t watching the path, and I almost tripped and fell. Seemed apropos for life.
Day three, I almost talked myself into taking a cab to Santiago – the end of the walk. I didn’t listen to me. Or, at least not to that particular voice. I did listen to the one that said, “You didn’t come half way around the world to take a cab.” So I got up and walked. I discovered later that many pilgrims almost quit on day three. My knees and hips ached. My ankles hurt. I was sick of wearing the same clothes. I still had met almost no one who spoke English. Day three was overcast and chilly. Every day was cold in the morning. Some days, extremely cold. I didn’t prepare for that.
Day three something very special happened. I was alone much more than the first two days – walking miles with seeing few in front of or behind of me. So I began talking to God. Sounds like something Pat Jobe would say. I’m not Pat. But this happened. It was a back and forth conversation about many things. I learned to recognize why I didn’t trust people (think childhood stuff). But I took another step. I talked about the many hurts I had sustained in my life – probably both real and imagined. And the God of my understanding asked if I wanted to keep carrying those around with me. A 75 mile hike in 6 days mean you want to jettison everything you can to make the load lighter. I did so with a book and an airplane pillow. It really isn’t terribly different in life. Get rid of the things that keep weighing you down. Or so I was told. And I grabbed hold of that idea. God told me I could bury all those pains right there in the rich black soil of Spain.
I looked to my left and to my right. There it was. Rich, loamy soil that could take anything I could bury in it. Soil that grew the beautiful crops of Spain. So I did exactly that. I took all those things that I ruminate about in my head, and allow to drag me down and make me hurt. I realized what I’ve known for a long time. Victor Frankl was right – you can choose your attitude. You can choose what you think about. You can choose to hang onto those hurts or to let them go. I had a lot of help that day. Since I’ve returned, I keep throwing things in that black soil. I can see it now. I hope I always can. If I can’t, I will return and see the soil that is stronger and smarter than me. I will rid my life of these hurts and focus on the kindnesses and help that I have received. And I’ve received so much. Throughout my life. And in Spain. This is a trip I will never forget. I will keep burying those things that want to bury me. I intend to enjoy this life.
An abundance of thanks for those of you who continue to enrich me. This is real. I feel it. And I’m so grateful.
It was at this point, that I stopped writing in the journal. I see now why that was so important. It’s easy to lose memories, and where you were and what you did. Now I can fill in with the memories that stayed.
Along the walk, I met two 71-year-old women who had walked together 3 miles a day for twenty-five years. I kept running into them, and walking for a bit each day after day three. That gave me a measure of connection when I heard my name called out in different locations. On the last day, we walked together for a few miles.
I met a couple from Florida. This was a walk that she wanted for years. He wasn’t so keen on it, but did it to appease her. On the last day, when my husband joined me at the end of the walk, we bumped into them in a tiny restaurant in Santiago. There are easily a hundred restaurants there, so seeing them was quite an odd – but pleasant – turn of events. During the walk, they shared some of their life experiences, which included living in St. Petersburg, Russia, for months at a time during work projects.
I met two Chilean couples on the fifth night, in a beautiful hotel. We shared wine and discussed our experiences along the trail. One of the husbands lived in Florida as an exchange student much earlier in his life. Here, I also met a couple from Australia who had been walking for five weeks.
On the last day, as I walked into Santiago, I met a young Irishwoman. We asked each other questions about our countries, and how things worked. We took turns taking each other’s picture at the welcome sign to Santiago. She left to eat while I headed to find the cathedral.
At this point, my husband had arrived in Santiago via train. He didn’t do the walk due to feet problems. But he came to Spain to meet me at the end of the walk. It is amazing to have this kind of support. He called and said he was in the front of the cathedral. I couldn’t find the front. The cathedral is massive, and easily takes twenty to twenty-five minutes to circumnavigate. I kept trying to find him, but the sheer beauty and history that unfolded around me kept grabbing my attention. The medieval look of this town is astounding. The Cathedral was built in the 12th Century. The oldest thing in America is the Liberty Bell. This simply took my breath away.
I located a guide, and asked her where I could find the front of the Cathedral. She showed me, and I took off. Finally rounding the massive court in front, I spotted my husband. This was truly a surreal moment to see him standing there in front of this building. It gave me such a feeling of belonging to see his face and hear him. From there, we went to lunch. Another pilgrim told us about an English speaking tour in the Cathedral. We also walked in briefly for the Pilgrim’s mass. I cannot describe the look and feel of the building. If you’ve had the opportunity to visit a medieval church, you will know what I mean. If not, the best I can do is ask you to google the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostello. It is truly magnificent. We were freezing at this point, and decided it was simply too cold to stay.
I discovered I was emotionally and physically depleted. He kindly agreed to return to the hotel where I could rest. We returned that night for dinner (where we ran into the couple from Florida). The next day, we came back for the tour, and did some shopping. The day after, we left for Madrid, where we spent six days.
What did I keep from this trip? I kept the memories, but more importantly, I kept that black loamy soil in which I have thrown a number of further hurts or conversations in my head. When I find myself ruminating on a past hurt, or having that argument with someone in my mind that will truly take place, or feel lonely or left out, I take that and toss it into the black soil. The thought disappears as soon as I do it, and I’m able to focus on more positive thoughts. It’s a great gift I’ve been given. I do wonder if I could have done the same thing had I taken a seventy -five mile walk on the Appalachian Trail. I don’t think so. I think I had to be where I truly couldn’t communicate with anyone to force me to communicate with the God of my understanding. And to listen. What a truly phenomenal gift to have been given. I plan to keep it forever.
Would I walk it again? Right now, I don’t think so. There are so many other places I want to go. I also had the belief that travel broadens a person more than most things do. Travel when you can. Don’t put it off for material goods. It is the greatest gift in itself. If we all regularly traveled, we would likely understand each other much better. I appreciate what I have and where I live, but I can’t wait to go on the next adventure.
Perhaps one day I’ll be a travel writer.